Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
